<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8" standalone="yes"?><?xml-stylesheet type="text/xsl" href="https://itohi.com/feed.xsl"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"><channel><title>Darktable on ITOHI — Open-Source Hardware, Embedded Systems &amp; DIY Builds</title><link>https://itohi.com/tags/darktable/</link><description>Recent content in Darktable on ITOHI — Open-Source Hardware, Embedded Systems &amp; DIY Builds</description><generator>Hugo -- gohugo.io</generator><language>en</language><copyright>2022 @ ITOHI - All rights reserved</copyright><lastBuildDate>Sun, 26 Oct 2025 18:00:00 +0200</lastBuildDate><atom:link href="https://itohi.com/tags/darktable/index.xml" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml"/><item><title>DIY Color Calibration Chart: From Sublimation Printer to Acrylic Paint</title><link>https://itohi.com/colorimetry/diy-color-chart/</link><pubDate>Sun, 26 Oct 2025 18:00:00 +0200</pubDate><guid>https://itohi.com/colorimetry/diy-color-chart/</guid><description>
&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href="https://itohi.com/colorimetry/reverse-engineering-cr30/"&gt;previous post&lt;/a&gt; I mentioned wanting to build a DIY color chart that could serve as a reference for Darktable's color calibration module. That article teased this as &amp;quot;a topic for another time.&amp;quot; This is that time.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The idea is simple in theory: print a set of known color patches, measure each one with the CR30, and use ArgyllCMS to build a correction profile. In practice it took two completely different approaches before I got anything usable.&lt;/p&gt;</description></item></channel></rss>